Guest Post by Carrie F.
These days, many teenage girls treat their mother’s fashion advice with disdain, even contempt; but turn the clock back to 19th century De Smet, and we find our always obedient and sensible Laura realizing that her Ma’s comments about her clothes were right. She really did need a new summer dress for best, but after surrendering her teaching mazuma to help buy the family organ, she was now strapped for cash.
So as quickly as you can say, “Extreme Makeover,” Laura hightails it to Miss Bell’s to ask about a job in her dress making and millinery store in return for yard goods. For Laura, it’s time to get serious about some fashionable threads and we’re not talking about everyday lawn fabric (it’s so 1877, anyway). We’re talking brown poplin…from Chicago no less.
Of course, Miss Bell is happy to give Laura a job and before the school term has ended, she has earned herself ten yards of fabric. With the poplin now in Ma’s capable sewing hands, Laura continues to work at Miss Bell’s so she can afford to pay for the perfect accessory…..a stylish new poke bonnet.
Meanwhile, the activities back at the homestead are taking on a veritable Better Homes and Gardens vibe, with Ma whipping up a new dress for Laura, and Pa constructing an extension to the claim shanty to accommodate the pending arrival of the family organ. You’ve gotta hand it to Charles. While he may have trudged the family through the harsh reality and (let’s face it) frequent heartache of America’s westward expansion, he really came through when stuff needed to be built. Yes, good one, Charles. But let’s face it. It’s the least he could do, given his gentle (shall we say) encouragement of Laura to cough up the cash for the organ.
Although I understand it was common for kids to help out their families back then, I always felt a bit annoyed with Charles for asking Laura to give such a large amount of money. After undertaking some online research, I now know that $75 during Laura’s teenage years would today be worth about $1600. I wonder how many teenagers in 2012 would happily donate that kind of money (if they had it), like Laura did?
When the new sitting room is finished, happiness abounds and interestingly, Ma makes repeated comments about not wanting to call the place a claim shanty any more. Okay, Ma – we get it! Clearly she is very happy to have a real home finally taking shape.
Eventually, the new organ arrives in all its shiny, musical glory. The family admires its polished walnut scrolls, the crisp black and white keys and fancy levers and pedals. It seems only a minor detail that nobody in the room can play the organ, that is apart from Mary, who is living 400 miles away. Grace couldn’t care less about the organ and is more enamored by the stool that came with it. Sitting on the seat, she twirls herself around until she accidentally comes crashing down. Of course, no adult reader is surprised by this typical childhood behavior, although I personally don’t know if I would have been as tolerant about the incident as Pa was. You see, I’ve never twirled. Honest.
By the time Ma has finished sewing her new dress, Laura has her new, matching poke bonnet and decides to wear the ensemble to church. On Sunday morning, Carrie happily watches Laura get ready and while doing so, makes the comment, “You do have beautiful hair, Laura.” With this, we are immediately taken back to the Big Woods of Wisconsin….to the golden hair/brown hair incident, where a sensitive Laura slaps Mary for saying, “Aunt Lottie likes my hair best. Golden hair is lots prettier than brown.” The spanking she received for slapping her older sister, coupled with Mary getting off scot-free meant that Laura carried a feeling of injustice about this childhood event most of her life. Finally here, it seems she gets some come back through the flattering words of her younger sister.
Perhaps as a display of her growing maturity, Laura passes Carrie’s compliment on to her older sibling, stating that her hair wasn’t golden like Mary’s. Laura’s ultimate description of her own lovely tresses in the chapter shows her growing self confidence. So there, Mary!
The description of Laura’s new dress is elaborate. To be honest, I struggled to understand some of the more esoteric details during my first reading of THGY. Luckily though, I was able to see the (almost) real thing for myself at LauraPalooza in 2010, with the lovely Melanie Stringer wearing her own replica of Laura’s brown poplin.
Once Laura is dressed, the family collectively admire her new outfit. Of course, no moment like this is complete without a little of Ma’s wisdom. She tells Laura, “You look very nice, but remember pretty is as pretty does.” With that, the family leave for Sunday’s service.
On such a beautiful day, Laura doesn’t feel like going to church. Reverend Brown’s sermon seems longer and duller than usual. She wishes there could be more to enjoy than simply going to Church and back home again. After returning to the homestead, Laura decides to stay in her new clothes and finds herself wandering restlessly around the house. Is she secretly hoping for a visit from Manly?
It isn’t long before Laura sees a shiny new buggy dashing out on the road toward the Big Slough. It’s Manly at the reins. He bulls the rig to a stop at the Ingalls homestead and asks if she’d like to go on a buggy ride. It’s just as well she didn’t change her dress!
The new buggy is beautiful and Laura comments about the low, lazy-back seat, which is a new experience for her. It isn’t long before Almanzo pulls a move that is very open to interpretation. Perhaps he was trying to be helpful (it was a new type of seat after all), or maybe it was something more affectionate – but Almanzo putting his arm around the top of the buggy seat was not a welcome gesture for Laura. She responds by leaning forward and deliberately shaking the buggy whip, which makes the horses bolt and Manly moves his hands back to the reins.
Poor Manly! Irrespective of his motives for the “arm on the buggy seat” move, he was always a gentleman to Laura. Either way, he was just trying to be nice! Clearly, he was going to have his work cut out in winning Laura’s affections. Oh, but poor Laura! She is completely clueless when it comes to men. She is nervous and let’s face it, who wouldn’t blame her? Manly was more than a few years her senior.
Luckily, our always brave and strong, Manly perseveres. Following some gentle admonishment about the buggy whip, he asks Laura, “You’re independent, aren’t you?” Instead of being turned off by her positive response, he seems to appreciate her self reliance (which is clearly needed for any pioneer woman worth their salt) and starts to open up to her about his plans for the future.
Arriving back to the homestead at sunset, Laura shyly (and somewhat indirectly) agrees to another buggy ride next Sunday.
Oh boy, we know this is going to be good!
Comments28
I have always liked this chapter because of the dress & hat. It is about time that Laura had some beautiful clothes for herself. It annoys me as well that Pa asks Laura for ALL of her teaching money to buy an organ for Mary. To use for when Mary is home for good. Why wasn’t Pa thinking about Laura’s future. That Laura might need the money. Personally, I think it was an extravagance of a LOT of money that could have been spent on other things the family needed. Ma’s comment of “pretty is as pretty does” has always annoyed me. When Mary tries on her new college dress in LTOTP, Ma does not guard against vanity & comments “You are not only as stylish as can be, you are beautiful. No matter where you go, you will be a pleasure to every eye that sees you.” But Laura is guarded against vanity with an admonishment. Ah, well. Laura is a strong gal. I admire her for it. I love the description of the dress & hat. It sounds so beautiful. I can almost see Laura standing among the little cottonwood trees in her crisp & pretty new ensemble. Looking at the lovely day & wishing for something more than the typical Sunday. I’m so excited when Manly arrives to take her for a drive in his brand new buggy & giggle a little when she rebuffs his advances. Clever girl to rein him in before he gets too friendly. When Manly talks of his homestead & his plans, I get the impression that he is trying to impress Laura with his steadfastness & his ability to provide.This chapter always makes me a little sad as well. For the little girl Laura is moving into adulthood now. In this chapter it is more apparent to me than in any other chapter of this book. Laura realizes it herself when Carrie comments that when she is a young lady she is going to earn herself a dress exactly like Laura’s. To which Laura replies that Carrie will likely have a prettier one, but Laura is startled. She had not thought that she was a young lady. Of course she is, she thinks. She wears her hair up & her skirts skim the ground. She is not sure she likes being a young lady. There is the poignancy of childhood fading away but the excitement of new adventures ahead. I like Laura’s demure ” I like buggy rides” at the end of the chapter. It is a little flirty. As I said before, clever girl:-)
Maybe Ma was more complimentary to Mary because Mary couldn’t see herself but Laura could.
I have always thought that Ma favored Mary just a bit – Mary was more ladylike and probably a much easier child than Laura. But then Pa favored Laura, so I guess it balanced out.
So glad to read the next installment!
I share Carrie’s irritation re the description of the brown poplin dress – an irriation I felt even more when I tried to read “My Kitchen Cabinet” written almost 20 years earlier. The so very precise detail about the width of the flounce & band I felt really detracted from the picture she was trying to paint. And what on earth is a “polonaise”? I always thought it was some kind of bodice (like the dress Nellie wore to school in LTOTP) which always made me wonder, when I read this as a kid, if the “underskirt” was the REAL skirt & the polonaise was just a top on top of it? Yet rereading the description now I see that “polonaise” means the whole dress? Just checked Wiki – here’s the opening description:
The robe à la polonaise or polonaise is a woman’s garment of the later 1770s and 1780s or a similar revival style of the 1870s inspired by Polish national costume,[1] consisting of a gown with a cutaway, draped and swagged overskirt, worn over an underskirt or petticoat. From the late nineteenth century, the term polonaise also described a fitted overdress which extended into long panels over the underskirt, but was not necessarily draped or swagged.
So why not just call it a dress? Oh well, I guess Laura had no way of knowing, in 1943, that people would be still reading her books so avidly 70 yrs later and would not know what she was talking about (well, maybe she had an inkling by then, given her success to date).
Something else that struck me in this chapter is the detail about all of Almanzo’s enterprises – I’m beginning to see the start of his overextending himself. He has not just 1 claim to run but 2, he and Cap are hauling lumber (okay, maybe that’s doable on top of the work of 1 claim, but when you have 2 claims??) and he has bought this beautiful, luxurious (as Laura called it) buggy, which must have cost a pretty penny, so that he can break the colts & then sell them, again taking precious time away from his work on his claim(s). Where’d he get the money for the buggy? I can’t help but want to give him advice about not going out too far on a limb, it might (will!) all come crashing down in future!
Carrie, I guess I’m clueless about men too, what did you mean about Laura when you said she was clueless? sorry, I didn’t get it!
A polonaise differs from an ordinary gown/dress in that the underskirt shows in the front. It was quite fashionable during this era because it allowed the dress to show off the large bustle (even if Laura didn’t like them) in the back while also allowing the woman to walk with reasonable ease. (And probably used a bit less of the more costly ‘fashion fabric’ than a heavily bustled dress would have.)
I’ve always why Almanzo didn’t just focus on raising horses. (Like Pa decided to concentrate on raising cows and ‘letting the grass grow.’) He seemed to be very good at it, had excellent breeding stock to work with, and enjoyed it. And hailstorms and droughts would be far less likely to wipe out his horses than his fields of gain.
And I’ve always chuckled at Laura’s reaction to his ‘arm across the back.’ They’ve been courting for two years now, and Laura is STILL playing hard to get…
When I said Laura was clueless, I meant that she was very inexperienced with men. I felt this was particularly the case when it came to interpreting and responding to their advances. I reckon I’m still clueless and I’m the wrong side of 35!
So the whole yawn & stretch is not a new move
Ok, let a man weigh in on this one! I think Laura purposely kept the dress on into Sunday afternoon with some hope for a visit from a certain gentleman. Almanzo had learned way back in Farmer Boy about farming economics and investment, so I think he knew how he could profit from good horse trading by breaking wild horses to sell. His “move” putting his arm around Laura, well, men have not changed much, and neither have ladies. I find it fun the way their courtship seems to revolve around horses, and she says she likes buggy rides, leaving Almanzo to wonder if it is the horses, the buggy, or him that she likes. Oh, speaking of his ability as a horseman, I think he enjoyes the “independance” of Laura just as he likes it in a horse. It is a challenge to tame a horse, and an independant woman like Laura. He wouldn’t want either to be too tame, would he?
This chapter has always made me glad I did NOT grow up in the 19th century.
Can you imagine wearing 3 petticoats, a hoop skirt, a bustle, a corset, a corset-cover, an underskirt and long-sleeved polonaise IN THE SUMMER??? Without air conditioning? I don’t think I would have minded it so much in winter, but in summer, it’s a wonder ladies weren’t fainting in the streets.
I have no doubt it was a beautiful dress, and I am sure Laura was beautiful in it, but good heavens! And THEN you had to wash all the parts with a washboard, then starch, sprinkle, and iron them.
It sure took a lot of effort to be a fashionable young lady.
Ironic isn’t it that Laura earns money for the dress by working for the town dressmaker … but Ma has to sew the dress for her. Can’t Laura sew?
She simply doesn’t have the time. She’s already working, going to school, still has her share of chores. And remember, she can’t go home after school/work and pull an all nighter working on the dress — ever tried to handsew on dark fabric by candlelight?? LOL Also, this is an extremely time consuming design, literally weeks of sewing on the pleats, all seams would have been double sewn *and* the edges finished. Oh and the basting before all that. The linings are basically another dress inside out. Ma would have worked pretty much full time on that dress for the better part of at least a month. And on such expensive fabric and such an important dress for her grown-up wardrobe, none of this would have been done in a hurry, all very meticulous. If Laura had had to make that dress in her “free time,” it would still be just a twinkle in her eye, so to speak! 🙂
Laura was busy sewing other peoples clothes for the dressmaker so she didn’t have time to sew for herself:-)
Loving these comments. So far no one has mentioned the part that freaked me the heck out on the order of seeing Pa’s crazy beard in Zochert for the first time. Laura’s hair is BELOW HER KNEES. Not her waist, her KNEES! Did that strike anyone else as crazytalk?
My great-grandmother’s hair almost touched the floor. Of course, she was a lot shorter than I am (I am 5’10’, she was maybe 5′ tall) but STILL.
Long hair was a woman’s crowning glory. I have read actual accounts of when women cut their hair in the 1920’s & their husbands cried or had even worse reactions. My husband doesn’t want me to cut my hair & it is just below my bra strap. I’ve read that Laura got terrible headaches when she had to wear that mass of hair up in a bun because of it’s weight. Can you imagine having to wear a corset that squeezed the very breath out of you & flattened your chest or pushed your girls up to your chin. No thanks.
I find Pa’s crazy beard more freaky than the long hair 😉
I’m enjoying these comments too. I love the different opinions.
When I was a teenager, I was determined to grow my hair to my knees like Laura’s. Made it as far as my butt. I always wanted to be able to sit on my braid. Then I broke my arm (wrist, elbow and dislocated shoulder) in a fall from a horse and my mom had to wash my hair for close to three months. She managed to talk me into letting her trim it (and trim it and trim it). By the time I got my cast off, my hair was not even to my shoulders. Never tried it again.
Did anyone happen to get a picture of Melanie Stringer wearing her brown poplin? I would love to see it. Laura’s minute descriptions of her clothes make my head spin – I never get a good picture in my mind’s eye.
Deanne, someone can correct me, but I’m wondering if Melanie, in the pic I just posted of my favorite things, is in fact wearing the brown poplin. It’s not a close-up, though.
I believe you’re right, Sandra.
I think this is it?
http://www.wendymcclure.net/2010/07/laurapalooza-2010-putting-the-oh-in-mankato/
Hi Megan, that’s the one. Doesn’t Melanie look lovely?
Hi Carrie P! Hi everyone!
She really does. And I was thrilled to see the pic, because like a lot of you, the detailed descriptions of dressmaking often lose me a bit. I like to do a little sewing, but don’t know much at all about the terms Ma and Laura use in making her wonderful dress.
I’d love to see a replica of Mary’s dress, too!
But that doesn’t look like it is a polonside. Of course it’s hard to tell in the pic.
Something I’ve always wanted to do is go through the books and get all the clothing/fashion descriptions, and then try to find out what they mean exactly. I’ve dreamt of having time to do the research and find pictures and write a short series on it. Of course, my real life and other interests intrude but maybe someday…
Oops I meant polonaise. Anyone know if there are people who do authentic reproductions based on Laura’s descriptions.
I’ll tell you, many of you have touched on things that have long bothered me about Ma and Laura. It’s almost as though much of how Ma is seen in the series is more how Laura wished she had been.
In reading PG, I don’t like Ma very much. Even before Mary went blind it was ALWAYS Laura that was being sent to live with others. It was ALWAYS Laura that was expected to sacrifice for Mary. At one point this led to Laura probably almost being raped.
Ma controls the home, clearly. It’s also clear that there is overt favoritism towards Mary. Even when it came to the damn biscuits. Pa got the biggest, then Ma, then Mary. Laura and Carrie had to have the two most alike. There is a larger age difference between Laura and Carrie than Laura and Mary….but Mary is considered to be “above” Laura while Laura and Carrie are equal.
I think Laura resented this later in life. I think that may well be why Laura didn’t attend the funeral when she and Almanzo were clearly better off then than they were when she dropped everything to rush to Pa. I always get the impression from the books (including PG) that Ma never felt Laura was quite good enough. No matter what it was, it was like Ma felt Mary could have done it better.
As much as I love the books and am obsessed with all things Laura, I really don’t think Ma and I would get along.
PG ends with a line that is very telling in that Laura is happy because she now has her own home and will never again have to live with strangers.
Back in those days, a man could legally keep his son working for him (and taking all his earnings) until he was 21. Although women worked far less often for wages, the law probably allowed the same for them. Almanzo’s father was quite progressive in allowing Almanzo to work for his own wages and keep them himself, when Manzo turned 18. So expecting Laura to support the family and turn over most of her money wasn’t really harsh. Even Laura thinks to herself in one book, about teaching school that ‘when she was able to teach, she could repay Ma and Pa all it had cost to raise her since she was a baby, then possibly she could earn enough to send Mary to college’ (paraphrasing). So she expected, even at a young age, to be working and contributing to the family.
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